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Warhammer Fantasy Roleplay (3rd Edition)» Forums » General

Subject: Tutorial: How to learn it, how to teach WFRP3 rss

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j h
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Ok, lets get this party started and teach you this game!!! You've got the core set and are ready to go. This thread is on methods of how to learn and how to teach the game. (all input is welcome)



Here's how to learn the game BEFORE you even get the boxed set:

Now, there's a LOT of stuff to this game, so it's best you don't have the box yet. When you get it you'll need to put about half of it aside and get ready to learn it.



Before you get started, You need to print out a couple things that don't come with the core set:

1. Download and print an official INDEX: www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/wfrp/support/FAQ-9-20...

2. Download and print the Day Late, Shilling Short demo (and everything else there): www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp

3. Download and print Court Dimon's GM screen/rule summary: www.gitzmansgallery.com/WFRP3_Resources/Docs/WFRP3/WFRP3%20R...

4. Download and print the dice symbol reference: www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/wfrp/warhammer-fantas...



LEARN THE GAME RIGHT NOW:

STEP 1. Get some stuff together right now.

Grab 1) DICE SYMBOL REFERENCE (above), 2) Day Late, Shilling Short Demo Print-out, 3) your dice. This is ALL YOU WILL NEED FOR RIGHT NOW.



STEP 2: Grab the character from the back of Day Late, Shilling Short

Look at the characters in the back of DAY LATE, SHILLING SHORT. Grab Birgitta the Roadwarden character. Look at her stats. Notice the characteristics, skills, etc. Note that she has a Wound Threshold (hit points), and a few other abilities listed.



STEP 3: Write some stuff on the character sheet for Birgitta:

1. Write BLUE DICE over her characteristics (strength, toughness, agility, intelligence, willpower, fellowship)

2. Write YELLOW DICE over the checkboxes over BASIC SKILLS



STEP 4. Learn how to use the dice.

Learn how to cancel dice. Look at the DICE REFERENCE SHEET. You've got to learn how to "cancel out dice".

The basic rule of the game is that you succeed in an action as long as there is one remaining HAMMER that hasn't been canceled out.

REMEMBER: Purple and black dice are BAD and all other dice are good.

Here's how the dice cancel each other out (See the Dice Reference Sheet):

* Crossed Swords (challenge=fails) cancel out Hammers (Successes)

* Skulls (bad/bane) cancel out Eagles (good/boon)

* Chaos stars (very bad) are not canceled out.

* Skip the red, green, and yellow dice for now. They have other effects (hour glass, emo tears/Exertion, and comets), that you don't need to learn yet.

AGAIN, The basic rule of the game is that you succeed in an action as long as there is one remaining HAMMER that hasn't been canceled out.



STEP 5: LET'S PLAY!!!!

Let's get you Rolling! Birgitta the Roadwarden's trail is blocked by a fallen tree. Let's have Birgitta the Roadwarden try to lift a fallen tree off the road with an easy Athletics SKILL CHECK:

1. Athletics is a strength skill, so grab blue dice equal to her strength 4 (FOUR).

2. The check is Easy, meaning one bad purple challenge die

3. Roll the dice. Cancel out hammers with crossed swords. IGNORE THE OTHER DICE EFFECTS FOR NOW(skulls, eagles and chaos stars).

4. If you're left with at least one Hammer (success) not canceled out by crossed swords, then she succeeds in moving the fallen tree off the road.

5. PRACTICE making various skill checks about 5 times, and you have essentially learned the basic element of the game.



STEP 6: LET'S FIGHT!!!

Birgitta finishes moving the fallen tree off the road. She is now ambushed by a goblin bent on murder!

FIRST: Both sides roll for Initiative using AGILITY. The number of Hammers/Successes determine when you go (higher is faster). Eagles don't count for anything here except tie breakers.

Roll 4 blue dice for Birgitta (Agility 4). Roll 4 blue dice for the Goblin (Agility 4)

Pretend that Birgitta gets 3 hammers, and the goblin gets 1 hammer. Birgitta goes first because she got more successes. You only roll for initiative ONCE for the ENTIRE encounter. You do NOT re-roll this each turn.



NEXT, ROLL FOR ATTACK:

Here are your steps for each person's turn in combat. NOTE: Just like any other RPG, you roll to hit first. If you hit, then you apply damage.

1. Look at her sheet and find LONGSWORD in her weapons. It's a melee weapon, so it uses WEAPON SKILL. (Her pistol would use Ballistic skill)

2. Look at her WEAPON SKILL (Strength-based). She has a strength of 4, so that means she'll be rolling 4 blue dice.

3. Notice her WEAPON SKILL also has a BONUS checkbox marked. That means she get's a bonus YELLOW die (good). You should have 4 blue and 1 yellow in your hand.

4. ALL COMBATS REQUIRE ONE PURPLE CHALLENGE DIE. Add that to your hand. You should be holding 4 blue, 1 yellow, 1 purple.

5. ROLL YOUR DICE TO HIT. If you succeed (at least one uncanceled hammer), you HIT!



IF YOU HIT THERE IS NO DAMAGE ROLL - DAMAGE IS THE TOTAL OF YOUR WEAPON D.R. plus YOUR STRENGTH (or Agility for ranged weapons):

1. Look at the LONGSWORD DR (damage rating) of the weapon and add that to Birgitta's strength. You should have DR5 plus Strength 4 = 9 = NINE TOTAL DAMAGE.

2. The monster's toughness and armor will soak and reduce part of this damage. Goblin has a Toughness of 3, plus Armor Defense of 1 = 4 FOUR TOTAL SOAK (damage reduction soak).

3. That means Birgitta did 9 damage and the goblin soaked 4……leaving 5 damage that got through. Goblins can take 9 wounds, so he's got 4 left. Another hit and the goblin is done for.



NOW, the goblin attacks the same way depending on what his statistics are. (We won't play that one out, but the goblin has strength 3, weapon DR4 if you want)



Practice attacking in combat 3-4 times and you'll have it down.



YOU'RE NOW READY TO PLAY THE MOST BASIC GAME.

jh
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j h
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Here are a couple other things you'll want to pick up:

1. Get yourself the list of actions expected of each creature from the creature guide. PRINT IT OUT AND STICK IT IN YOUR CREATURE GUIDE.

* www.gitzmansgallery.com/WFRP3_Resources/Docs/WFRP3/WFRP3%20C...



2. Downloadable Character sheet options: Use the official character sheets or download a differen't one.

* Here is a nice, basic one: dl.dropbox.com/u/167876/WFRP3CharSheet%20EASY%20jh%20preferred.pdf

* Here is one with the basic actions on it: www.gitzmansgallery.com/WFRP3_Resources/Docs/WFRP3/Gitzmans%...

Now, for the advanced game.




You've learned how to make a skill roll and how to fight a combat. Everything else is just a modifier to that.

Examples of the other things to learn:

1. If you look at the Melee Strike action card (see the sheet download with all the basic actions on it), you can see that other effects can be triggered by the dice beyond hitting or not. For example: two uncancelled eagles will give an additional benefit!

2. Critical wounds can be scored if you get a number of uncancelled eagles equal to the CR of the weapon (example: Longsword has CR3, meaning if you get 3 uncancelled eagles, you get to give the creature a critical wound (see those cards when you get them). You can also score a critical with a COMET on the yellow die.

3. There is a Stance Meter, which allows you to swap out your blue dice for better green or red dice (with other effects).

4. Combat Defenses: Sometimes you or monsters have extra defenses that add extra dice to the pool. For example, a goblin may be carrying a shield which gives you a black penaty die to hit him and may soak an extra point of damage when he get's hit.

5. Advanced Action Cards: Advanced Actions are like basic actions, but with different effects and they may only be used every couple rounds. They'll have a number in the corner that shows how many rounds it takes to recharge them. You can track that with tokens or with a pencil.

6. You'll notice some effects give you fatigue (tiredness) or stress (stress), and if this get's high enough you'll start getting penatly black dice, or even pass out from exhaustion!!!

7. The magic system requires some accounting for spell points.

8. There is a thing called a Party Sheet, which may be used for your players to benefit and play off of each other, and to add a little "frustration" spice if the Elf and the Dwarf start having a little intra-party conflict.

9. There are TALENTS, which are special abilities of each character. There is a rule for TALENT SOCKETING, which means that you can say that the character can only use a couple of his talents at one time.

10. Characters can gain temporary insanities from being too STRESSED and they can become permanent.



Other boxed sets (and the Gamemasters Guide Hardcover) introduce a few new rules as well:

Disease

Corruption and mutation

Permanent wounds

Mounted combat

etc.



When we teach the game at conventions, we generally have players do the same as I did for you: learn the dice, make a skill check and GO! We always have the player write the COLOR of the dice over the characterstic and Bonus for skills. I also have them pre-calculate the TOTAL DAMAGE (Strength + DR for melee and Agility + DR for ranged) as well as their TOTAL SOAK (Toughness plus Soak of the armor)

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j h
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Regarind The Player's Guide (PDF or hardback ).. It has nearly all of the careers (90%) and rules in the easiest reference form.

If you're not planning on running it, this is probably the easiest way to go to "get the game." Use the Rules Lite character sheet and Rules Lite basic action sheet, and rules-lite blank action sheet. If you just want some characters, use the pre-generated ones that I made up for EVERY basic career in Liber Fanatica #7.

The GM's guide has conditions, diseases, corruption, mutations. The GM screen at Gitzman's gallery has these for reference as well. This is available on PDF or hardback.

The creature guide (available PDF or hardback) is all the monsters. You can check them out stat-wise here: www.cutlass.be/rpg/wfrp/creatureview.php. I don't think there are all their wierd action cards, but you can just use melee attack and a roleplaying effect rather than all the cards anyways.

The core set is worth getting for $60 really only for the extra dice IMHO and only if you want to buried in the biomass of stacks of cards, counters and sheets. If you don't want to be buried under stacks of cards, skip ALL of the vaults for sale.



If you like the game and intend to run it, then start picking up other stuff, but IMHO, the easiest way to "get it" is just buy a cheap copy of the Player's Guide.



jh

~the dice are going out of print (and what else?), act fast!
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Ron
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ASL ... yes, this is my Desert Island Game. If I have to give up all my 3000+ games and only allowed to keep one, this would be it. This bloody game stood the test of time. Around for more than 25 years - simply the best.
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Wow! Thanks for all the work you've done here!

I'm ashamed to say, I still play v2 blush
But to my defense: I bought all the available v3 stuff meeple
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Jens Melinder
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PzVIE wrote:
Wow! Thanks for all the work you've done here!

I'm ashamed to say, I still play v2 blush
But to my defense: I bought all the available v3 stuff meeple


Yes, nice Tutorial tydirium!

Why would you be ashamed, v2 is a nice game too . But try out 3rd ed., you may like that even better.
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Philippe Boujon
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Hi All,

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n1kpk2umrhrpqxk/BHyGvo6jPs/WFRP3/...

Above is the link to a dropbox folder where I am in the process of creating a WFRP3 Beginner Box.

I have already uploaded character folios, made specially for Beginners, for the free adventures by FFG: A Day Late, A Shilling Short (4 characters) and Journey to Black Fire Pass (6 characters). Within two weeks, I will also have a folio that will contain a brief history of the World, and an example of play.

The character folios are meant to be printed on one US Letter Borderless sheet with two pages per sheet layout so that page 1 and 2 are on the front together, and page 3 and 4 are on the back together. That way, when folded, the folio is the size of ~ a WFRP3 career card. When opened, the new player (to WFRP3 and RPG) has the information needed for a Beginner session.

The GM will need to provide each players with the appropriate actions, talents and abilities cards, as well as the additional mini-cards I am making available (fortune point cards, on which 3 fortune tokens are placed, and race abilities cards). For the basic actions, I also provided a summary of the basic actions.

Each GM may decides whether or not to use all the cards for his Beginner session. If my players are really completely new to RPG, I may elect not to give them the talents cards or special actions cards, and simply play with the basic action cards and race abilities cards in the 1st session. Then, in the 2nd session, I may introduce the other cards.

After the 1st session, the player may also buy advances with the help of the GM, and continue to use this folio if desired, but I didn't make provision for advances. My goal is to transition the players, after a few sessions, to the excellent Gitzman's character sheet:

http://gitzmansgallery.com/docs/Gitzmans%20WFRP3%20Character...

Cheers
Ceodryn
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Brad Hale

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This is such a solid post -- thanks so much, Philippe. I will be playing (and GM'ing) my first game of WFRP3 at the end of the month. Though I have all the necessary books, they are misleading and generally confusing at times. After reading through your posts, though, I feel like I already have a better grasp of the core mechanics than I ever did having only read the guides.
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j h
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Brad: Feel free to ask about anything confusing. We're here to help

jh
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Brad Hale

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Well, I'm taking you up on your off, JH... Can you tell me if moving a player character's stance token to either side of the meter counts as a manouver, or is it a self-contained action that doesn't affect one's manourverability?
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Alex Nguyen
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I think you get a freebie as part of the Beginning of Turn festivities. Then if you want to push it, suffer 1 Stress to move down the track again.

And to answer your question specifically I don't believe adjusting Stances have anything to do with Manoeuvres.
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Alex Nguyen
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I'm trying to quickly find a page number in the rules but so far only have the Example of Play to go by (regarding the expenditure of Stress to move down the stance track again) - p.84 Player's Guide.
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Josiah Leis
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I spent 100 GG and all I got was this stupid overtext.....
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Alex is correct, adjusting your stance meter is not a maneuver.

At the beginning of your turn (before you do anything else) you may adjust your stance meter 1 space for free. If you want to adjust it extra spaces you can, but it costs 1 Stress per extra space.
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j h
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AzureEternal wrote:
Well, I'm taking you up on your off, JH... Can you tell me if moving a player character's stance token to either side of the meter counts as a manouver, or is it a self-contained action that doesn't affect one's manourverability?


Yes as earlier poster indicated:

During your turn, you do these 4 things:
1. Adjust your stance meter one space(additional cost 1 stress each). This is unrelated to maneuvers or actions. It is simply book-keeping.

2. Make one maneuver (for example move one range increment). Additional maneuvers costs 1 fatigue each.

3. Make one action. For example: make a melee attack with your axe. There are no "additional actions" however there is an action for "double attack" and "rapid fire" which are detailed on those cards.

4. Recharge each action one point each. At the end of your turn, you remove one recharge from EACH recharging action. So, if the recharge is (4), you cannot use it again until it is down to (zero). To remove ONE extra recharge from ONE recharging action, you can spend a fortune point. Like Stance, it is simple book-keeping, and is unrelated to the other things you do on your turn.

There are some things that are "free", such as shouting an order to a friend and sometimes the GM will have you make an Observation check for free to notice something during your turn that don't count against your maneuvers or actions.


The benefit of going extra stance is that you get higher chances to succeed.

The benefit of going extra maneuvers is that you may need to move extra ranges to get to someone (or get away), or you want to spend a fatigue to give a white assist dice to a friend in a crucial situation (for example).

Actions take a few rounds sometimes for you to get back into place in order to act again, so it is useful to get more special action abilities for your character so while one is recharging, you can use a different one.





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Brad Hale

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Thanks again for everyone's response. It certainly has made things easier to understand.

I do have another question, though. It would seem that GMs can dish out fortunate points to the party as a whole, but not individual players. Is this correct? How I'm reading the rules, it seems that I can dive the PCs fortunate dice whenever I see fit, but not points... those go to the party. Is this correct?
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j h
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Officially, they are dumped into the party fortune pool and taken out once they're all full. If the party sheet is used in your game, then I would suggest that fortune points refresh after EVERY character has done something heroic (not just the loudest player at the table hogging all the action all the time).

We don't use the party sheet in our group (except as an occasional theme), so I typically just assign fortune points whenever I feel it would be dramatic. (see my house rules for effect)



jh
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j h
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Link back to discussion with more words: http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/956...

jh
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j h
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One more WFRP3 link to an encounter I ran for new players with graphics: http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/909...


jh
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Jeremy Smith
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tydirium wrote:


This post just sent me into a loop back to my Fantasy Flight post

This is an amazing example of play! I have to agree with Brad, I think this gave me a better understanding of how to play the game than reading the guide did. I think I'll run all of my players through this.
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j h
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Here's something I was thinking about using for all new players: A "simpler" simple step by step for your turn.

TROLLSLAYER's TURN (his actions):
Step 1: Free stance shift: 1 free to 1 Red/Reckless
Step 2: Extra stance shift (cost 1 stress each): none
Step 3: Free maneuver: Assist ally: wedge himself between the ungor and his Roadwarden friend
Step 4: Extra Maneuvers (cost 1 fatigue each): none
Step 5: Action: Reckless Cleave VS Gor (place 2 recharge tokens on reckless cleave)
* GOR DEFENSE: 2 black
* DICE: 4 blue, 1 red, 1 yellow (trained in weapon skill), 1 purple (always 1 purple for combat), 2 black (defense)
* RESULTS: ???? Apply results
Step 6: END OF TURN: Remove one recharge token from each recharging action and defense

Now, if each player has a list of maneuvers and a note about when to use skills as Perform Stunt and when to use skills as their Maneuver, they're really set for the basics
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jef stuyck
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I have a question, i keep hearing that combat should be avoided in this game. Then what is the point of a troll slayer for example?

And is there a good replacement for loot? Because wfrp doesn't have much of this. I want to hide stuff in my scene's that they really need to work hard for to find it.
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j h
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Banemus wrote:
I have a question, i keep hearing that combat should be avoided in this game. Then what is the point of a troll slayer for example?

And is there a good replacement for loot? Because wfrp doesn't have much of this. I want to hide stuff in my scene's that they really need to work hard for to find it.



Combats can quickly overwhelm players who enter this game thinking that it is D&D. Combat's just fine, but balance is up to the GM.

For loot replacement, I suggest occasional plot-related benefit items, armor repair (use the damage condition on critical hits instead of critical wounds periodically), favors with local informants, a horse, a better gun, etc.

Another good thing to get to PCs is extra fortune points.

Additional sample runs of the game:
http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/forum/149...

http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/909...

jh
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jef stuyck
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Yea, i think this game isn't the easiest game for new rpg players, let alone a new rpg + gm player . But i will get there, just need to read up on more idea's for gm's so i can understand how it all works and how to come up with my own ideas.

I found a nice one in the game master toolkit book, with the goblins and the caravan. Might do something similar for the first session.

The thing that scares me the most as a gm is improvisation, or good improvisation. But i guess this would solve itself if i had more npc's to work with. And the more relationships being build between pc's and npc's .

btw, do you think that a healer character is a necessity for a healthy party ( barber surgeon, priest, wizard ) ? Or are the skills enough to keep characters alive. (first aid, medicine, health potion ( forgot the name of it ), rest )
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Jens Melinder
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Banemus wrote:

The thing that scares me the most as a gm is improvisation, or good improvisation. But i guess this would solve itself if i had more npc's to work with. And the more relationships being build between pc's and npc's .

btw, do you think that a healer character is a necessity for a healthy party ( barber surgeon, priest, wizard ) ? Or are the skills enough to keep characters alive. (first aid, medicine, health potion ( forgot the name of it ), rest )


When you play the first couple of sessions, don't worry too much about improvisation. Your players will have to accept that things are new to you too. If you feel that you're a bit stuck, ask them what they think fits in the current situation or what would be fun. In that way you make it a collaborative effort which may very well make the play even more fun. The dice system in 3ed makes this even more natural and it is an important part of the game that the players get to help out with interpreting the dice pool.

Start with a simple session and try to keep the number of combat encounters down, not only because combat is deadly (it is), but also because complicated combat scenes can take a long time to resolve. Do nice and simple fights at start, it takes experience to pace combats in a good way in WHFRP3ed.

I think a healer character can be very useful if you as GM plan to run a combat heavy game with several combat encounters during the same day with no real rest in between. Otherwise, I don't think it's that important. Unless the players rack up a lot of criticals, a normal nights rest will let them recover a lot of wounds. Someone trained in first aid (or at least someone with a 4+ Int score) is probably a very good idea though.
 
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j h
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The GM needs to preface all campaigns with this: If you think that you're going to lose a combat, either don't start it or run away. You will die in this game and there is no resurrection.

The same is true for the GM: its ok to have monsters run away. Not every fight needs to be to the death, even if the monsters are winning.

jh
 
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j h
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I just wanted to add the following to this discussion:
http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_news.asp?etyn=1&ecan=...


http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/forum/136...
It is the useful news posts.
 
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