DIY Foam core insert master list
Ian Noble
United States
El Dorado Hills
California
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This list exists in order to share all of the foam core insert mods people have created. I have created none of these.

Feel free to add any that you know of, but please keep them to just inserts and not actual game pieces or map modifications.

10/2 Update: Thank you to everyone that continues to build up this list. It's amazing to see how creative our community is.

12/18 Update: Because keeping an index of this huge list is just not viable, you can use the "Titles Only" option for easier browsing.
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1. Board Game: 12 Thieves [Average Rating:6.44 Overall Rank:2586]
Board Game: 12 Thieves
John Hubbard
United States
Worthington
Minnesota
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I have the original 2006 edition(The Thief of Baghdad), and the box size is awkward and the insert was not designed to hold sleeved cards. Due to the depth of the box I made a riser to go underneath the foam core insert to fill in the bottom of the box. This was a simple straight forward build.
From gallery of mudsoccer

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2. Board Game: 1817 [Average Rating:8.79 Overall Rank:1583]
Board Game: 1817
Germany
Elzach
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I originally planned to use 5 layers, turns out 4 are sufficient. That left a gap of 14 mm in the box which I originally had filled with punched cardboard. Then I got annoyed by awkwardly extracting tokens from the inlay and increased the height of the token layer. Smaller detachable cases with 3 walls would be the way to go, but I was lazy and used simple L-shaped brackets. Rutland (green) put on top for illustration.

Bases: 285*235 mm², 3 mm thick.
Walls: Mostly 3 mm thick, some outer walls 5 mm. For the share layer thin walls were a must.
Then I had a lot of 3 mm offcuts that wouldn’t be useful as bases for other inlays … These were used as fulcrums to ease taking out shares.
Further enhanced by recycling punched "waste" from Gravitrax to flip up tiles (cp. 18Chesapeake inlay)

From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze

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From gallery of yzemaze
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3. Board Game: 1824: Austrian-Hungarian Railway (Second Edition) [Average Rating:8.23 Overall Rank:3854]
Board Game: 1824: Austrian-Hungarian Railway (Second Edition)
I find myself unable to stop making inserts for 18xx games. This one isn't perfect, esp. if, like me, you can only find 5mm foamcore. But it's close enough for me.

Base is 310 x 220mm. The yellow walls are 11mm, for stacks of 5 tiles max. The other two tile trays have 7mm walls. The shares and tokens have 10mm walls (had to be for the thicker wood tokens), with 6mm inset walls. I could fit more of the card stacks (given the empty slot), but wanted the "goods time" markers to have their own place. I'll likely alter that to give more space for the trains and so each company can have their own slot without so much dual-purposing.

The overall thickness of the box is 70mm, and with these trays and the boards (15mm) it ends up with maybe 2mm of lift, but the walls are exactly where they need to be. Someday I'll find 3mm foamcore!

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4. Board Game: 1830: Railways & Robber Barons [Average Rating:7.88 Overall Rank:188]
Board Game: 1830: Railways & Robber Barons
Created this for the Lookout edition based on a similar one for 1846 shown on this very geeklist. All with 5mm foam board. Base is 210mm x 300mm. Tile walls are 9mm. Card tray walls are 5mm and 10mm, in order to fit the companies in the well formed. It's about right to the lip of the box if you retained the original punch sheets. If not, you'll have ~5mm to fill.

From gallery of waddball


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5. Board Game: 1830: Railways & Robber Barons [Average Rating:7.88 Overall Rank:188]
Board Game: 1830: Railways & Robber Barons
Ben Tinney
Australia
BROKEN HILL
New South Wales
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This is the one, the insert I can point to and definitively say: “here is where I went too far.” This is the 50th insert (surprise) that I’ve made and it contains the most intricate and time consuming elements that I’ve attempted. I don’t think I’ll be doing something like this ever again, but it was certainly an illuminating process conceiving, planning, cutting and building the damn thing.

Be aware that my second hand copy of the Mayfair edition came without paper money, so I haven’t left space for it in the box. This is no issue at all for me; I use my Iron Clays for in game currency anyway.

From gallery of Penguinised

The fully loaded box. 3 shallow card caddies sit on top of everything else which hold all the game cards. Two trays hold all the base game company stocks, minor companies and trains, while the third tray holds all the optional expansion cards.

From gallery of Penguinised

Underneath the card caddies sits the board, manuals and company boards.

From gallery of Penguinised

Under the boards sit the hex trays and two small boxes to hold tokens. The trays each have 28 compartments, enough to allow all the “classic” track pieces to be displayed, with enough left over to stack the expansion hexes face down.

From gallery of Penguinised

The two trays on the table showing the organisation of the hexes.

From gallery of Penguinised

An empty tray. Each tray is constructed from 100 individual pieces with the angles cut by hand. They aren’t perfect, but with the bracing pieces at the bottom of each compartment, they are quite sturdy and don’t require additional strengthening. The bracing pieces also double as risers which make retrieving the tiles much easier.

From gallery of Penguinised

Low angle view of one of the trays.

From gallery of Penguinised

The empty insert. All these components serve to keep the trays and boxes from moving around too much when storing or transporting the game. The box has been designed to take a custom priority action marker (once I finish making it). Both it and the angled pieces are glued and pinned to a sheet of thick card which sits inside the base of the box.

From gallery of Penguinised

The card caddies in use beside the main board.

From gallery of Penguinised

The small token boxes. The larger one holds all the “classic” game tokens, the other holds all the expansion specific tokens.

For more of my foamcore inserts please check out my geeklist:
Penguinised's Adventures in Foamcore
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6. Board Game: 1846: The Race for the Midwest [Average Rating:7.95 Overall Rank:450]
Board Game: 1846: The Race for the Midwest
Germany
Elzach
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Inspired by the 4 Layer Insert by VinegarBob I made my own.

I’ve used 3 mm foamcore for the bases. 13 mm high walls for the 3 layers holding tiles (4 tiles stacked are 12 mm thick). The section holding the cards has 6 mm high walls on the outside and in the middle and 4 mm between card stacks. This allows all company mats to rest on top of the cards and additionally prevents the certificates from sliding around in (vertical) storage.

track tiles
From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze


certificates and trains
From gallery of yzemaze

... with company mats on top
From gallery of yzemaze


Measurements:
Base 290*210 mm²
Walls 5 mm thick
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7. Board Game: 1862: Railway Mania in the Eastern Counties [Average Rating:8.37 Overall Rank:1364]
Board Game: 1862: Railway Mania in the Eastern Counties
This is for the GMT edition. I had some trouble with the thickness because I can only seem to find 3/16" (~5mm) foam board, and this box is just too full! I also didn't plan it out as well as I should have, and I had to re-do some of it. Only 2 of the 5 inserts use the foam for backing, and the other 3 (the 4x6 boards for track and tokens) use plain poster paper. I wanted that really thick paper/matte board used for envelopes or frame backing but again Michael's let me down (and I was in a hurry). I think if you can find that thick stuff (~1mm?), you can use this plan for all 5 boards and avoid box lift.

Anyway, base dimensions are 210x290mm. I did the inset for the company sheets to lay on top of the shares. That one has 8mm walls; the others are all 10mm. The overall thickness of the box is 75mm, and the folded map is ~14mm. But with some warping and imperfect measurement, I wound up with about 2mm of box lift. So not perfect, but it works.

From gallery of waddball

From gallery of waddball
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8. Board Game: 1862: Railway Mania in the Eastern Counties [Average Rating:8.37 Overall Rank:1364]
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Elzach
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5 layers with 250 g/m² paper for bases because of pretty tight margins to work with. The inserts are of course not as rigid as they’d be with thicker bases, but it’s ok when handled with a little bit of care.
All layers are 290*210 mm², walls are 5 mm foam core, 3 mm on the share layer’s inner walls.

1 tile layer (16 mm high walls)
From gallery of yzemaze
Recently I stumbled upon the 1861/1867 insert again and wondered why I never tried to do sth. similar with foamcore. After some tinkering I came up with the simple solution pictured above. It works quite nicely, is really space efficient and rather easy to replicate. The longer inner walls next to the outer walls are 37 mm long, the shorter ones 30 mm. But they don’t even need to be accurately cut. It’s all about correct placement here.
Hex tiles are thick enough to easily take them out so there’s nothing hidden below them this time.

1 tile + permits layer (11 mm)
From gallery of yzemaze

1 shares layer (6 mm)
From gallery of yzemaze

1 mixed layer (11 mm)
From gallery of yzemaze

1 token layer (11 mm)
This will be constructed later on after ordering (and receiving) another round of tokens from Rails on Boards

All compartments for cards have little offcuts glued in on the long side as fulcrums to lever cards:
From gallery of yzemaze
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9. Board Game: 1889: History of Shikoku Railways [Average Rating:8.06 Overall Rank:883]
Board Game: 1889: History of Shikoku Railways
Ryan Buhr
United States
Fort Wayne
Indiana
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I made myself a copy of 1889 from THESE files.
I then made this foam core to house it.

From gallery of Thirdspaced

From gallery of Thirdspaced

From gallery of Thirdspaced

From gallery of Thirdspaced
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10. Board Game: 18Chesapeake [Average Rating:8.07 Overall Rank:1451]
Board Game: 18Chesapeake
From gallery of waddball

Base is 290 x 237 (mm). I used 5mm Elmer's foam. Three use 7mm walls, the one with the tokens uses 9mm. I had some unusual warping with the bases which gives it a little box lift. If I did it again I'd probably go with 6.5mm on the three with tiles just to be safe. I always assume perfect cuts and no warping but I always end up 1-2mm off with imperfections.

Not sure what I'm going to do with the blue crab, though...I completely left it out of my planning! It was so amusing that I immediately took it out to show my family and it stayed away from the game. Even so, it's an awkward fit. One tray would have to be 10mm (maybe 10.5mm) for the crab alone.

Update: okay, it was bugging me, so I redid that one. Crab sticks up just a tiny bit (9mm wall, 10mm crab). So in a perfect world, do 6.5mm walls (or even 6mm, if you don't mind things being exactly flush vs having a slightly higher wall), and 10mm for this one.

From gallery of waddball
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11. Board Game: 18Chesapeake [Average Rating:8.07 Overall Rank:1451]
Board Game: 18Chesapeake
Germany
Elzach
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From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze

From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze

Bases: 285*235 mm², 3 mm thick.
Walls: 5 mm thick. Company layer walls are 11 mm high, yellow layer walls 9 mm (5 tiles), green/brown layer walls 7 mm (3 tiles). In total 4*3+2*11+9+7 = 50 mm high.
Designed to fit snugly in the box when board, revenue chart and manual are put on top. If you’d like a little bit of leeway just cut green/brown layer walls to a height of 6 mm. Best practice: measure the depth of your box, because ymmv
To ease taking charters and shares out of the inlay 3 mm thick offcuts were glued in place:
From gallery of yzemaze

This works quite nicely:
From gallery of yzemaze

From gallery of yzemaze


I’ve stumbled upon a bag with hundreds of cardboard hexes (punched from Gravitrax bases) which I kept because I thought they might come in handy sometime. They finally did:
From gallery of yzemaze
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12. Board Game: 18CZ [Average Rating:7.91 Overall Rank:1888]
Board Game: 18CZ
Germany
Elzach
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Another 4 layer insert for 18xx:
From gallery of yzemaze

From gallery of yzemaze

Bases: 3 mm foamcore, 297*210 mm² (DINA4) = same size as manual, upgrade chart etc.
Walls: 5 mm foamcore
Bottom left layer (with mostly yellow tiles): 11 mm high walls to hold up to 5 tiles per compartment
Other layers: 5 mm high walls to hold up to 2 tiles per compartment

Some compartments are pretty tight as I got a little lazy while marking locations for walls. Not a good idea If I’d do it again I’d use 3 instead of 5 mm foamcore for 3 long "vertical" inner walls to widen each compartment by 1.5 mm.

The stack of 4 layers is about 38 mm high. Set on top of the boards this leaves just enough room for manual & Co on top plus cards and tokens on the side:
From gallery of yzemaze


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13. Board Game: 18Lilliput [Average Rating:7.28 Overall Rank:2076]
Board Game: 18Lilliput
Hobie
United States
Philadelphia
Pennsylvania
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Back to the original avatar...seems more fitting. Cloud break over Centennial Hall, Fairmount Park, Philadelphia, after a severe thunderstorm
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Here is my first attempt at a foamboard insert from scratch…with no foamboard at all.

From gallery of beardandglasses


The base…The base is a piece of cardboard backing from a 2018 desk calendar. Not super solid, but in small cuts like these, holds up surprisingly well. It is literally 1mm thick. I think in the future I am going to fold a cereal box on itself, glue the big sections together and have a fairly sturdy base.

The walls...I really don’t like cutting foam board. I have another set to post where I did use foam for the walls. For some reason, it’s hard for me to cut evenly, and have consistently straight edges. I might have access to a friend’s mat board cutter, so we’ll see. I saw these strips of balsa wood at the local hardware store. Uniform straightness, easy to cut, sturdy for what they are needed for…

The “pull” system… Using some craft ribbon, I glued two pieces to the bottom tray so that all I need to do is pull up and everything comes out.

The “finger holes” innovation…this just came to me when looking at other designs that had easier access to tiles, cards, etc. How would I get the track tiles out easily? I used an arc punch (on the left of the pictures) on the balsa wood (goes through like butter). I used the punched out half-circle to be a push-up piece for the other tiles. Everything is easily accessible! True of the cards as well (with a double finger hole feature).

I did everything by feel…no measurements recorded (I know, it drives some people crazy). I just marked, cut and pasted. Amazingly, everything fits perfectly in the box, no space, no lid push. Truth is that I almost built it so that the paper money would be left out (as my poker chips would feel jealous). However, I would not know what to do with the money if it were removed, so I kept rearranging (before gluing walls) and was very happy with the final results (splitting the deck of money in half and leaving it there in case of emergency when I forget said poker chips).

Top tray with rulebook and lid above...arc punch to the left...Contains the money with player aids and turn marker, two segments for all cards without trains.
From gallery of beardandglasses


Second tray with all the track tiles. It will eventually be arranged by color and specials.
From gallery of beardandglasses


Here is a cut out of the "finger holes" and push-up system for easy access...

From gallery of beardandglasses


Third tray with the score sheet, Tokens and train cards. I was really happy with how this one used every milometer of space without crowding.

So there it is! Ready to be the 18xx of family vacations for years to come...with travel mini poker chips, of course
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14. Board Game: 18MEX [Average Rating:7.87 Overall Rank:2426]
Board Game: 18MEX
Germany
Elzach
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From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze

From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze


Bases: 285*235 mm², 3 mm thick.
Walls: Mostly 3 mm thick, some outer walls 5 mm. Tile inlays are 14 mm high in total (11 mm walls), share inlay had to cover 20 mm which allowed the double layer for tokens.
As with my other inlays offcuts were used as fulcrums to ease taking out shares and "waste" from Gravitrax was recycled as well:
From gallery of yzemaze
From gallery of yzemaze


I ran out of 3 mm foamcore and just cut the original inlay to size to use as base for the token tray:
From gallery of yzemaze
This worked quite well. No wonder some people do regularly use cardboard as base material. Given the rather rigid foamcore walls on top it’s almost a torsion box.

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15. Board Game: 1911 Amundsen vs Scott [Average Rating:6.73 Overall Rank:2670]
Board Game: 1911 Amundsen vs Scott
Alex Bergonzini
Spain
Barcelona
Barcelona
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New foamcore

Expansion separated from coregame

From gallery of Bergonzini


And with 3 levels
From gallery of Bergonzini
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16. Board Game: 1920 Wall Street [Average Rating:6.74 Overall Rank:3703]
Board Game: 1920 Wall Street
Alex Bergonzini
Spain
Barcelona
Barcelona
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Little organizer + space for real pennies
From gallery of Bergonzini
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17. Board Game: 1944: Race to the Rhine [Average Rating:7.25 Overall Rank:1642]
Board Game: 1944: Race to the Rhine
Konrad Sieradzan
Poland
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Players: deck,markers, Corps; Axis deck, markers.
From gallery of Pero Pambarasco

Wooden supplies: gas barrels, ammo, food, transport trucks; Red Ball Expres expansion cars, medals
From gallery of Pero Pambarasco

Game board, rulebook
From gallery of Pero Pambarasco

Redy to setup
From gallery of Pero Pambarasco
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18. Board Game: 2 de Mayo [Average Rating:6.93 Overall Rank:1421]
Board Game: 2 de Mayo
Nicolás P. de A.
Spain
Madrid
Madrid
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Started with a small project.
Sleeved cards don’t fit in the original insert so I made a custom one. Made it so the new cards should fit if I ever get the expansion.

Board Game: 2 de Mayo

Board Game: 2 de Mayo

Board Game: 2 de Mayo
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19. Board Game: 5-Minute Dungeon [Average Rating:7.06 Overall Rank:734]
Board Game: 5-Minute Dungeon
Joerg Vosse
Germany
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The insert for this game is good. I only added a layer above the cards for stability.

All elements are made from 5mm and 3mm foamcore.

From gallery of neo50126


From gallery of neo50126


From gallery of neo50126



Check out my Geeklist showing all the inserts I made so far.
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20. Board Game: 504 [Average Rating:6.31 Overall Rank:2923]
Board Game: 504
keith hunt
United Kingdom
Bradford
West Yorkshire
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Images of foam core insert for 504

These are the individual elements

Board Game: 504


All elements in the box

Board Game: 504


Top and bottom layers loaded with game parts

Board Game: 504


All loaded trays back in the box

Board Game: 504


And finally with rules, book of worlds and game boards all stored on top

Board Game: 504


A brief run down of how to make this can be found in this post: https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1463309/foam-core-stora...
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21. Board Game: 51st State: Master Set [Average Rating:7.66 Overall Rank:295]
Board Game: 51st State: Master Set
Daniel Sherman
United States
Avon Lake
Ohio
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From gallery of sherm21al

Everything fits with the box closing fully
From gallery of sherm21al

Holds sleeved cards with room for scavengers expansion
From gallery of sherm21al
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22. Board Game: 7 Wonders [Average Rating:7.76 Overall Rank:58]
Board Game: 7 Wonders
Jonathan White
United States
Oviedo
Florida
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UPDATED on 07/14/19

With the release of the Babel expansion, I was finally able to redo my very first insert. 24 inserts and counting, I've definitely learned a lot. This box contains the base game, Leaders, Cities, Wonder Board expansion, Babel, and a few promos. Overall, I'm very happy with how this one turned out.

The top level contains all the Wonder boards and a large money tray for easy access by all players around the table. The middle level has three removable trays: Combat tokens, Debt tokens, and Great Projects tokens. The bottom level stores all the cards (divided by Age & expansion), Babel pieces, Great Project cards, and a few miscellaneous tokens.

Thanks to colinmarsh for showing that it was possible to fit everyone in one box and another thank you to mauigreen for his wonderful card dividers.

Board Game: 7 Wonders
Board Game: 7 Wonders
Board Game: 7 Wonders


For more information on this insert, detailed plans, and tips on making your own, please check out my geeklist, 28green's Collection of Foam Board Inserts.
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23. Board Game: 7 Wonders [Average Rating:7.76 Overall Rank:58]
Board Game: 7 Wonders
Maui Chris
United States
San Ramon
California
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Here's the solution I used for 7 Wonders. I made some card dividers to go with the new insert as well

From gallery of mauigreen
From gallery of mauigreen
From gallery of mauigreen
From gallery of mauigreen




Here's a link to the dividers
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24. Board Game: 7 Wonders [Average Rating:7.76 Overall Rank:58]
Board Game: 7 Wonders
David Hernandez
United States
Lancaster
Pennsylvania
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7 Wonders + Leaders + Cities

Top level holds two trays. Topmost tray holds all 7 Wonders Boards (including space for Wonder Pack), Scorepad, and Wonder Cards within tuck box. Bottommost tray holds all tokens and is removable for ease of play.

Bottom level holds two removable trays. Tuck boxes on the right hold Ages I to III. Tuck boxes on the left hold Guild, Leaders, and Cities cards. All cards are sleeved within horizontal tuck boxes.

Board Game: 7 Wonders
Board Game: 7 Wonders
Board Game: 7 Wonders

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25. Board Game: 7 Wonders [Average Rating:7.76 Overall Rank:58]
Board Game: 7 Wonders
Michael McCarty
United States
Agoura Hills
California
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Carrauntoohil
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Mt Whitney
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Storage for all expansions with sleeved cards.

Board Game: 7 Wonders


Board Game: 7 Wonders
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